Can Engineered Hardwood Floors Be Refinished? A Practical Step-by-Step Guide

Introduction: Quick answer and why this matters

Short answer, yes, but only sometimes. The real limiter is the thickness of the wear layer, not the plank itself. If you ask, can engineered hardwood floors be refinished, the practical rule is this: very thin veneers under about 2 mm usually cannot be sanded, they need screening and a new coat of finish; veneers 2 to 4 mm can often take one light sanding and recoat; veneers 4 mm or thicker can usually be sanded more aggressively several times.

This matters because sanding wrong can expose plywood layers and ruin the floor, which is an expensive mistake. In this guide you will learn how to measure the wear layer, decide between screening and full sanding, estimate costs, and spot manufacturer warnings. If you are a homeowner with surface scratches, a landlord prepping a rental, or a contractor estimating a job, these steps will show you the safest, most cost effective route to refresh your engineered hardwood without guessing.

What engineered hardwood actually is

Engineered hardwood is a layered product, not a single solid board. The visible layer is a real hardwood veneer, glued over a plywood or high density fiberboard core that is built for stability against moisture and movement. Veneer thickness varies widely; thin veneers can be 0.6 to 1.5 millimeters, common consumer boards sit around 2 to 3 millimeters, and premium planks can reach 4 to 6 millimeters. That veneer thickness is the key to the question can engineered hardwood floors be refinished, because sanding removes some of that top layer. If your veneer is under 2 millimeters, plan to refresh with screening and a new finish coat instead of sanding. If the veneer measures 3 millimeters or more, you can usually get one light full sand and refinish. To check thickness, remove a trim piece or check the manufacturer spec in a closet or under a vent.

When refinishing is a good idea

Short answer, yes in many cases, especially when damage is surface level. Common problems refinishing solves include surface scratches from pets, dull or worn finish in high traffic zones, light water rings, and faded color after years of sun exposure. If the planks have a wear layer of about 3 millimeters or more, you can sand away the old finish and apply a new stain and topcoat, giving the floor a like new look.

Concrete checks to confirm value: inspect an unfinished board end or under a toe kick to measure the top veneer, or review the manufacturer spec sheet. Typical scenarios where refinishing adds real value, not just cosmetic improvement: restoring the main living area before a sale, repairing patchy finish around a kitchen sink, or changing color to modernize the room. If the damage is deep through the veneer, refinishing will not help.

How to tell if your engineered floors can be refinished

Start with the paperwork, not the sander. Find the product name or SKU on a plank, under a door threshold, or in your purchase records, then search the manufacturer website for veneer or wear layer thickness and refinishing guidance. If the manual says no sanding, stop there.

If paperwork is missing, do a visual cross section test. Remove a transition strip or a single plank at a closet edge, then look at the end grain. You should see a distinct top wood layer over plywood or HDF. Measure that top layer with calipers or a ruler. If it is less than about 1.5 millimeters, refinishing is risky. At roughly 2 millimeters you can usually do one light sand and refinish. At 3 millimeters or more you can expect multiple refinishes over the floor life.

Quick surface check, also. Scrape a coin across a hidden edge. If you see printed pattern or no solid wood, you have laminate, not engineered hardwood. Finally, call the manufacturer with the product code, ask how many times their wear layer supports sanding, and confirm warranty impact.

Sanding versus screening, and when to choose each

Sanding removes the old finish plus a thin layer of wood, screening scuffs the finish so a new coat sticks. Screening is fast, low dust, and ideal for surface wear or multiple light recoats. Sanding solves deep scratches, stains, and finish failure, but it costs more, creates dust, and can sand through the veneer if you are not careful.

So which to choose for engineered hardwood? If veneer is under 2 mm, avoid full sanding, stick to screening and recoating. Veneer about 2 to 3 mm can tolerate one light sanding, usually with fine to medium grits. Veneer 3 mm or thicker can be sanded more aggressively and refinished like solid wood, but always verify the manufacturer warranty before you sand. When in doubt, test in a closet or call a pro.

Step-by-step refinishing process for DIYers

If you asked "can engineered hardwood floors be refinished" the short answer is yes, when the veneer is thick enough. Here is a practical, safe workflow you can follow at home.

Prep first, thoroughly. Remove furniture, clean baseboards, and pull up any transition strips. Inspect wear to determine method; if veneer is under 1 mm, plan to screen and recoat rather than sand. Put on a NIOSH rated respirator and safety glasses, and tape doorways to control dust.

Screening or light sanding comes next. For most engineered floors use a floor buffer with 120 to 150 grit screen to remove finish scuffing and thin topcoat buildup. If veneer is 2 mm or thicker you can use an orbital sander with 80 to 100 grit to remove deeper scratches, but never use a belt sander on engineered planks; it removes too much veneer too fast. Sand with the grain, keep moving, and feather any edges.

Clean thoroughly after any sanding. Vacuum with a HEPA vacuum, then wipe with a tack cloth or microfiber mops dampened with a TSP substitute. Let the floor dry completely; any dust or residue will telegraph through the finish.

If you want to change color, test stain in an inconspicuous corner first. Choose a stain that is compatible with your finish type. Apply stain sparingly and wipe quickly for even color.

Finish with two or three coats of polyurethane. Water based poly dries faster and has low odor, oil based gives warmer tones. Stir don’t shake, apply thin even coats with a lambswool applicator or microfiber pad, and allow full cure time between coats. Keep foot traffic off for at least 24 hours after the final coat, and full load bearing for several days. Following these steps will maximize longevity and give professional looking results.

Common mistakes that ruin results

If you wonder can engineered hardwood floors be refinished, avoiding these common mistakes will save you time and money.

1. Over sanding. People sand until the floor looks perfect, then hit the thin veneer. Test a hidden board, measure veneer thickness, and never remove more than the veneer allows. When in doubt, hand sand instead of using a drum sander.

2. Wrong sandpaper grit. Starting too coarse creates deep scratches. For thin veneers start around 100 grit, then move to 120 and 150. For thicker veneers you can start at 80, but always finish with 120 plus.

3. Poor ventilation. Finish fumes ruin drying and your health. Open windows, run box fans, and use a respirator for solvent based products.

4. Improper finish. Don’t mix incompatible products. Follow manufacturer cure times, do an adhesion test, and use low VOC water based polyurethane for quicker drying and less ambering.

When to call a pro and what to ask them

If scratches are surface level, the answer to can engineered hardwood floors be refinished is often yes. Call a pro when veneer is thin, boards are cupped from water, planks are glued down, or you need stair treads refinished. Also hire help for large areas, complex patterns, or if you want dust containment and a fast timeline.

Use this vetting checklist when interviewing contractors:
Can you confirm veneer thickness and show photos of similar jobs?
What sanding method and finish do you recommend, and why?
Do you provide a written estimate, timeline, and warranty?
Are you licensed and insured, and can you provide references?
How will you control dust and protect adjacent rooms?

Cost, time, and lifespan expectations

When homeowners ask can engineered hardwood floors be refinished, cost and time are the next questions. DIY for a 200 to 400 sq ft room usually runs $300 to $800, rental drum sander $50 to $100 per day, sandpaper discs $30 to $80, plus stain and finish $50 to $200. Expect 2 to 5 days of work, plus 24 to 72 hours for coats to cure. Pro pricing typically falls between $3 and $8 per square foot, so a 500 sq ft area might be $1,500 to $4,000, with pros completing the job in 1 to 3 days. One proper refinish often adds 5 to 15 years of life; multiple refinishes on thick wear layers can push that to 20 to 30 years.

Conclusion: Final insights and quick checklist

Short answer to can engineered hardwood floors be refinished: usually yes, but it depends on veneer thickness, damage depth, and board construction. A 2 mm veneer often cannot survive sanding, a 3 mm veneer can take one light sand, and a 6 mm veneer can be sanded multiple times. If wear is surface only, screening and recoating saves time and money.

Quick decision checklist, do these now:

1. Measure veneer thickness at an offcut or vent.
2. Inspect for deep gouges or water damage.
3. Try a small sanding test in a hidden spot.
4. Get two pro quotes, one for screening and one for full sand.

Next steps: measure, test, then book the right service.